All Aboard the Ghost Train:

As a journalist who’s seen his fair share of manufactured scares and Halloween gimmicks, I’m a tough nut to crack. But as the autumn chill settled over Pickering, and the hiss of a real steam engine cut through the evening quiet, I confess to a flicker of genuine, old-fashioned apprehension. This wasn’t just any Halloween event. This was the Mad Alice Ghost Train, and I was about to find out if the journey was as chilling as its reputation.

There’s something inherently romantic and slightly haunting about the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (NYMR). By day, it’s a celebrated heritage line, a moving museum of polished brass and chuffing steam. But by night, as the platform lamps of Pickering Station cast long, dancing shadows, the atmosphere shifts entirely. The air grows heavy with the scent of coal smoke and something else… anticipation. Families and couples huddled together, their nervous laughter echoing off the vintage carriages. We were all here for the same reason: to be spooked, entertained, and whisked away into the ghostly heart of the moors.

Why Pickering Makes the Perfect Base for Your Ghost Train Adventure

Before I dive into the spine-tingling details of the journey itself, it’s worth talking about Pickering—because this charming market town is far more than just a convenient starting point for the Mad Alice experience. Nestled at the edge of the North York Moors National Park, Pickering is one of those quintessentially English towns that feels like it’s been plucked straight from a period drama.

The town offers the perfect blend of history, heritage, and local culture, making it an ideal destination for a weekend break whether you’re travelling solo, as a couple, or with a group of friends. With its picturesque surroundings and easy access to the Yorkshire Coast, Dalby Forest, and the dramatic moorland landscapes, Pickering provides an excellent base for exploring this stunning corner of England.

What really sets Pickering apart is its authenticity. This is a proper working market town with a thriving community of independent businesses, traditional shops, cosy cafés, and welcoming pubs. You won’t find chain stores dominating the high street here—instead, you’ll discover local butchers selling Yorkshire-reared meat, bakeries producing fresh bread daily, and gift shops stocked with handmade crafts and locally sourced produce.

The town’s crown jewel is undoubtedly Pickering Castle, a magnificent Norman fortress built by William the Conqueror. This royal castle was used by successive medieval kings as a hunting lodge and holiday home, and today its well-preserved ruins offer spectacular views across the Vale of Pickering. It’s the perfect place to spend a crisp autumn afternoon before your evening ghost train adventure.

For those who love exploring on foot, the Beck Isle Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into local life over the centuries, while St Peter and St Paul’s Church is renowned for its stunning medieval wall paintings—some of the finest in England. And if you’re visiting during daylight hours, the surrounding countryside offers endless opportunities for walking, cycling, and simply soaking in the beauty of the North York Moors.

Accommodation-wise, Pickering punches well above its weight. From characterful B&Bs in converted Victorian townhouses to luxury self-catering cottages with hot tubs, there’s something to suit every budget and preference. Many visitors choose to make a proper weekend of it, combining the Mad Alice Ghost Train with daytime steam railway journeys, forest walks in nearby Dalby, or even a trip to the coast at Whitby or Scarborough, both less than half an hour’s drive away.

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Stepping Back in Time at Pickering Station

Pickering Station after dark is atmospheric enough without any added theatrics. This lovingly preserved slice of railway history, complete with period signage and vintage luggage trolleys, feels less like a tourist attraction and more like the opening scene of a Victorian ghost story. As darkness fell and the station lights flickered on, I watched the locomotive’s steam billow into the cold night air and began to understand this was something different.

Our tickets (£40 / $50 USD for adults, £35 / $44 USD for young people aged 14-17) promised more than just a train ride—an interactive haunting, a theatrical experience, and a journey into the darker corners of Yorkshire’s history. For one hour, we would be the captive audience for some of history’s most restless spirits.

Stepping into the beautifully preserved carriage felt like stepping back a century. The plush seating, the wooden panelling polished to a deep shine, the brass luggage racks overhead—every detail had been maintained with obvious care. The lighting was deliberately dim, creating pools of shadow between the lamps. It was a comfortable facade for the unsettling tales we were about to hear.

A Civilized Start to Supernatural Chaos

The experience began not with a scream, but with a civilized sip. A complimentary ‘Bloody Orange’ Gin & Tonic, a collaboration with the highly-regarded York Gin, was a wonderfully ironic touch. The gin was crisp and perfectly balanced, doing a surprisingly good job of steadying the nerves. As the train lurched forward and began its slow, rhythmic journey towards Levisham, the lights flickered, and our host for the evening made her grand entrance.

The Enigmatic Mad Alice

Enter Mad Alice. Far from a generic ghoul, she is a character steeped in the bloody history of York. With a knowing glint in her eye and a lantern swinging from her hand, she commanded the carriage from the moment she appeared. Was she Alice Smith, the woman hanged in York Castle in 1825 for the crime of being “mad,” or was she a cunning poisoner who did away with her husband? The ambiguity is entirely the point.

Performed by the brilliant Alicia Stabler of the award-winning ‘Bloody Tour of York,’ Mad Alice is no mere storyteller; she’s a conduit to the past. Her performance is a whirlwind of dark humour, historical intrigue, and theatrical flair. She doesn’t just recite facts; she inhabits them, making you feel like you’re hearing secrets whispered in a tavern rather than sitting through a history lesson.

She set the scene perfectly, reminding us that the very ground we were travelling over was soaked in centuries of secrets and sorrow. The Yorkshire moors, she explained with relish, have claimed countless lives over the years—travellers lost in the mist, children who wandered too far, criminals fleeing justice only to meet a darker fate. Her voice dropped to a conspiratorial whisper as the train picked up speed, and suddenly the darkness outside felt less empty and more… occupied.

Whispers in the Carriage

As the train rattled through the darkness, the Yorkshire moors a black, impenetrable wall outside our windows, the ghosts came out to play. This isn’t a jump-scare-a-minute horror show. It’s far more intelligent than that. The actors use the narrow confines of the carriage to create an intimate, genuinely unnerving atmosphere. They appear suddenly at the end of the aisle or lean in close to whisper their tragic tales.

One of the first spirits to greet us was a frantic, wild-eyed woman in tattered Victorian dress, wringing her hands and searching desperately for her lost child on the moors. Her performance was utterly compelling, her grief so palpable it felt like a cold draft in the warm carriage. She moved between passengers, asking if we’d seen her boy, describing his face, his clothes, the way he laughed. Her voice cracked with desperation, and I found myself genuinely moved despite knowing this was theatre.

She spoke of the dangers of the moors, of mists that descend without warning, of the lonely, unmarked graves that dot the landscape. It was a sobering reminder of the harsh realities of life in this beautiful but unforgiving part of the world, and the actress delivered it with such conviction that several passengers looked genuinely uncomfortable.

A Dickensian Nightmare at 50 Miles Per Hour

The centrepiece of the evening was a masterful retelling of Charles Dickens’ classic ghost story, The Signalman. For those unfamiliar, it’s one of the most famous railway ghost stories ever written, inspired by Dickens’ own traumatic experience in the Staplehurst rail crash of 1865. The story tells of a lonely signalman haunted by a spectral figure who appears just before a tragedy occurs on the line.

To hear this story, in the dark, on a moving steam train, is an experience of pure atmospheric genius. An actor, gaunt and haunted-looking in period railway worker’s clothing, took on the role of the signalman. He used the entire carriage as his stage, pacing, gesturing, using the carriage’s own sounds—the clatter of the wheels, the mournful whistle of the engine—to build the tension to almost unbearable levels.

When he described the ghost’s warning cry—“Halloa! Below there!”—you could feel a collective shiver run through the passengers. The story’s themes of fate and helplessness felt terrifyingly immediate when you’re actually travelling by rail. The actor’s performance was nuanced and powerful, capturing the signalman’s descent from professional competence into paranoid terror with remarkable skill. When the inevitable tragedy came, delivered in hushed, horrified tones, several passengers gasped audibly.

It was a perfect fusion of classic literature and immersive theatre, demonstrating exactly why this event works so well. This isn’t about cheap thrills; it’s about the power of a well-told story, delivered in exactly the right setting.

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The Verdict: Is It Worth the Fare?

So, as a seasoned reviewer, what’s the final word? The Mad Alice Ghost Train is, without a doubt, one of the most unique and well-executed Halloween experiences in the UK. It succeeds because it respects its audience’s intelligence. It swaps cheap thrills for genuine atmosphere, historical depth, and top-tier theatrical performances.

The £40 ($50 USD) ticket price feels entirely justified. You’re not just paying for a train ride; you’re paying for an hour of immersive, high-quality theatre performed by talented actors who clearly love what they do. You’re paying for a journey on a real heritage steam train through one of England’s most atmospheric landscapes. You’re paying for a history lesson that’s actually entertaining, for stories that will stay with you long after you’ve left the station. And yes, you’re paying for that delicious G&T, which sets the tone perfectly.

It’s scary, but in a smart, psychological way that gets under your skin rather than just making you jump. The dark humour is perfectly pitched, providing moments of relief before the next wave of unease. Mad Alice herself is worth the price of admission—her performance is engaging, funny, and genuinely impressive.

This is the perfect Halloween night out for couples looking for something different, groups of friends who appreciate quality entertainment, and families with teenagers who are ready for something more sophisticated. Combined with a weekend in beautiful Pickering, exploring the castle, browsing the independent shops, and enjoying excellent local food, it makes for an unforgettable autumn break. It’s a resounding, if slightly trembling, yes from me.

Know Before You Go

• Event: Mad Alice’s Ghost Train

• Location: Departs from Pickering Station, North Yorkshire Moors Railway (NYMR), YO18 7AJ

• 2025 Dates: October 19th, 26th & November 2nd. Departures at 6:15 PM and 8:00 PM

• Tickets: £40 Adult (18+), £35 Young Person (14-17). Booking in advance is essential as services sell out quickly

• The Experience: An approximately one-hour return journey from Pickering to Levisham with live actors, storytelling, and a complimentary drink

• Good to Know: This event is not suitable for children under 14 or those of a nervous disposition. The historic carriages are not wheelchair accessible, and passengers must be able to walk to their seats unaided

• Getting There: Pickering is easily accessible by car (approximately 25 miles from York), with parking available at the station. The town makes an excellent base for exploring the North York Moors and Yorkshire Coast

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